Your First Time in Bilbao: A Slow Traveler's Introduction

Erin
Jul 13
3 min read

This week we are turning our gaze north — to a city that surprised us the first time we visited and has never stopped giving us reasons to return. Bilbao, tucked into the green hills of Spain's Basque Country, is one of Europe's great reinvention stories. Once an industrial port city, it has transformed itself into one of the continent's most dynamic, culturally rich, and genuinely delicious destinations. If you have not been yet, consider this your invitation.

A narrow, atmospheric street looking up at the traditional architecture of Casco Viejo (the Old Town) in Bilbao. The historic multi-story buildings feature distinct enclosed wooden bay windows (miradores) in dark blue and natural wood tones, wrought-iron balconies, and an ornate stone coat of arms carved into a facade. A classic wrought-iron street lamp with a clock hangs in the foreground. — Houses in Casco Viejo

What to Expect From Bilbao

Bilbao is compact, walkable, and full of personality. It sits in a valley along the Nervión River, hemmed in by green mountains, and its neighborhoods have distinct characters that are worth exploring slowly. The old town — Casco Viejo — is a tangle of medieval streets lined with pintxos bars, and the newer Ensanche district is elegant and café-lined. And then, of course, there is the Guggenheim.

First-Timer Highlights

Casco Viejo — The Old Quarter: This is where Bilbao began, and it is still where the city's pulse is easiest to feel. The seven original streets — Las Siete Calles — are home to some of the best pintxos bars in the world, small family-run churches, and the covered Ribera Market, one of the largest and most beloved food markets in the Basque Country. Arrive before noon to see it at its liveliest.

Close-up view of the iconic Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, showcasing its futuristic, deconstructivist architecture. The exterior features sweeping, undulating curves clad in shimmering, light-gold titanium panels under a blue sky with soft clouds. — Guggenheim Museum

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao: Even if you are not a museum person, the Guggenheim is worth the visit. Frank Gehry's titanium-clad building is a work of art in itself, and the permanent collection alongside the rotating exhibitions make it one of the most interesting contemporary art spaces in Europe. Go early, take your time, and have coffee at the museum café with a view of Jeff Koons' floral Puppy standing guard outside.

Pintxos Crawl in the Casco Viejo: Bilbao's answer to tapas is the pintxo, and doing a proper pintxos crawl is one of the great pleasures of visiting. The format is wonderfully low-pressure — you move from bar to bar, pointing at whatever looks good, ordering a small glass of local wine or txakoli, and eating standing at the counter. Go hungry. Go slowly. Go more than once.

A scenic landscape view of the Nervión River flowing through Bilbao. On the left bank, the grand Ribera Market features classical architecture with large windows, set alongside historic stone bridge arches. The right bank is lined with a vibrant row of tall apartment buildings painted in bright pink, orange, yellow, and blue, all under a bright, lightly clouded sky. — Nervion River

The Azkuna Zentroa: Once a wine warehouse, now a staggeringly beautiful cultural center with 43 individually designed columns supporting the upper floors and a rooftop pool that is surreal and wonderful. Even a brief wander through the atrium is worth your time.

A Walk Along the Nervión: The riverfront promenade connects the Guggenheim to the old town and is one of the most pleasant walks in the city. Early morning or late evening, with the hills reflected in the river and the bridges lit up, it is the kind of walk that reminds you why you travel in the first place.

A hearty serving of Marmitako, a traditional Basque tuna and potato stew, presented in a rustic, round clay bowl (cazuela). Large chunks of tender tuna and golden potatoes are simmered in a rich, reddish-orange broth made with pepper and tomato, garnished with freshly chopped parsley. The bowl sits on a folded dark gray striped cloth napkin over a dark wooden table. — Marmitako Stew

Eating and Drinking in Bilbao

The Basque Country has a reputation as the finest food region in Spain, and Bilbao lives up to it. Beyond the pintxos, there are traditional Basque restaurants serving slow-cooked bacalao and marmitako fish stew, and a growing number of more contemporary spots pushing Basque cuisine in exciting new directions. If you are a food traveler, this city will make you very, very happy.

Drink txakoli — the local slightly sparkling white wine — poured from a height to aerate it, alongside your pintxos. Order a Rioja Alavesa with dinner. And at some point, have a small glass of patxaran, the local anise liqueur, as a digestif. When in Bilbao, eat and drink as the Bilbaínos do.

A close-up shot of a hand holding a wine glass as crisp, slightly sparkling white Txakoli wine is poured into it from a green bottle. The background features bright yellow autumn grapevine leaves softly blurred in a sunny Basque vineyard. — Txakoli

A Few Practical Notes

Bilbao has an excellent metro system and is very walkable in the central neighborhoods. The Euskotren connects the city to the coast, making day trips to San Sebastián or the beaches of Getxo and Sopelana easy and scenic. The city has a maritime climate — mild but rainy — so pack a layer and a compact umbrella regardless of the season. Spring and early autumn are wonderful. Even a grey Bilbao day has a particular moody beauty to it.

If Spain is calling your name — and I have a feeling it might be — schedule a consultation today to start planning your vacation.